Just 17 months ago I started writing about the Achiltibuie area of NW Scotland. I posted my reasons here.

At some point today this blog will receive its 30,000th visit.

I am continually amazed by the number of people who are searching for information about Achiltibuie, Coigach and the Summer Isles and who end up on these pages.

Your comments and contributions have been most welcome & I really value the connections I have made.

I hope over that time I have encouraged holiday-makers to spend time in the region, to discover for themselves what a special place it is and contribute to the local economy as a result of their visit.

Thanks again.

Rory.

When we are on holiday in Achiltibuie with friends they are always amazed by the fact that, in the middle of thousands of acres of wilderness, there is a fancy hotel complete with a Michelin starred restaurant. It can seem slightly incongruous.

However, the Summer Isles hotel is no one season wonder. The hotel has been there for generations – in fact I believe my great great uncle worked on extending the building.

It really came to prominence when it was acquired by Robert Irvine in the late 60’s or early 70’s and smartened up.

Over the years the Summer Isles hotel has become famous for both the setting and the cooking of the current head chef, Chris Firth-Bernard.

The 5 course evening meals are fixed and not cheap but worth it if you are celebrating a special occasion. I have eaten there 5 or 6 times in the last 20 years. Every time has been superb.

In 2008 the Irvine family finally sold up and the hotel is now under new management. I was curious to see how it was faring so went at the end of August with my brother and his wife who were staying with us at Greenhill.

Unfortunately when we went they had made a mistake and lost our booking. Even though they were very apologetic and tried to accommodate us, it was fairly obvious that we ended up eating food from the bar while others around us were eating langoustine and scallops. A lamb shank and mash didn’t quite have the same appeal.

So, I’m curious to know from others about whether the hotel is still a special place to stay and eat? I had a quick scan on TripAdvisor to see the reports and it seems to be a place that people either love or loathe.

I’d love to hear others’ experiences.

Greenhill, Achiltibuie, originally uploaded by Rory Brown.

For the rest of 2009 we are offering a special rate of just £400 per week if you want a holiday in Achiltibuie.

Greenhill is a large and comfortable family house with open fires in the sitting room. It is set in its own grounds and has spectacular direct views down to the sea and over to the Summer Isles.

Sleeping from 2-6 people it is a comfortable base for fishermen, hill walkers, bird watchers or anyone who just wants to get away from it all!

Please visit these pages to hear what other holiday-makers have said about the house and surroundings.

To see some pictures of the house or find details of booking please click here.

(We have also just opened up booking for 2010 holidays. Some of the popular weeks – like Spring Bank Holiday – have already been taken. If you are interested in a holiday in Achiltibuie next year then please get in touch).

Next week (18-19 September) the Loopallu festival takes place in Ullapool.

The detailed schedule is here (courtesy of Ullapool News):

Friday 18th September

16.00              Gates open

16.00 – 16.20   Ullapool Pipe Band

16.20 – 16.50   Bronto Skylift

17.00 – 17.40   Pearl & the Puppets

18.00 – 18.45   Kid British

19.15 – 20.00   The Dykeenies

20.30 – 21.30   Neville Staple (ex Specials)

22.00 – 23.15   The View

Saturday 19th September

12.00                 Gates open

12.15 – 12.45    Naked Strangers

13.05 – 13.50   French Wives

14.10 – 14.55   Grousebeater Sound System

15.15 – 16.00   Polly & the Billets Doux

16.25 – 17.15    Dangleberries

17.45 – 18.30   Codeine Velvet Club

19.00 – 20.00  Mumford & Sons

20.30 – 21.30  Family Mahone

22.00 – 23.15  Lightning Seeds

Further details can be found on the main Loopallu website

Last night, as part of the Scottish Geology Festival there was a lecture in the Coigach Community Hall about the Stac Fada metorite strike by local geologist Fiona Saywell. I’d have loved to have gone.

Fiona was talking about the largest known meteorite strike in the British Isles – some 1.2 billion years ago and is today leading a walk at Stoer to see some of the evidence first hand.

These events are just part of a month of lectures and field trips in the area including:

Weds 9th Sept – Visit to the Bone Caves at Inchnadamph

Thursday 10th Sept – Scourie Coast – A Gneiss Walk

Friday 11th Sept – How the NW Highlands Tells Us How the Himalayas are Made

Saturday 12th Sept – Field Excursion – From Sango Beach to Arnaboll & Moine Thrusts

Tuesday 22nd Sept – Stac Fada Meteorite Strike

Wednesday 23rd Sept – A Billion Years of Life at Achnahaird

Monday 28th Sept – Mapping – How the Geologists do it

Looks like a great programme. Full details can be found here.

During the family holidays of my youth trips to Achiltibuie largely consisted of 3 pastimes – walking, fishing and (if it was the right time of year) mushroom hunting. I remember whispered conversations about prime locations for chanterelles or cep. Locations that were only shared with a select few. I became adept at spotting the glint of orangey yellow beneath a pine or birch tree & discussions about whether we had hit a golden seam or been conned by the appearance of a false chanterelle.

On arrival at Greenhill last week I was delighted to find a large crop of cep growing by the shed in the garden. Unfortunately they were a bit slug eaten but it did prompt a renewed hunt for something exotic and edible. So, armed with a copy of the classic Food for Free we set off exploring.

First I asked at the beach hut on Achmelvich beach if the warden knew any good sites to find mushrooms. He looked up from his chair and said that a few years ago he had found bucket loads of some orange mushroom that was very good with bacon – a great start… “Where?” I asked him. “Third loch along back towards the main road. You’ll see an old jetty as you walk down. Just behind that is a small patch of woodland and they were growing everywhere”.

After ages driving backwards and forwards along this road I had no luck finding the third loch, let alone any jetty, so set off back towards home.

On the way back along the tiny road from Lochinver to Achiltibuie I saw a small sign pointing to the entrance of Culag Woods. Culag Woods? That rang a bell. I vaguely remembered writing a post about guided walks in these woods looking for funghi. So we stopped.

The midges were fierce but armed with some of Avon’s Skin so Soft as protection I set off with my youngest daughter to explore.

What a fantastic place. I cannot believe I haven’t visited before. These woods are managed by a local community of volunteers and are set out with a range of trails and well signposted. They stretch from the edge of the village across along the sea-shore. They’re a great place to visit – especially with children and there are regular events hosted there.

No chanterelles, I’m afraid. I suspect we were a little too early in the season but I did find a great haul of ceps / porcini. They were delicious fried with garlic and parsley on a piece of toast.

I often think that late August & September is the greatest time to visit the Highlands. Most of the holiday-makers have gone & the tourist industry is winding down but the majority of places are still open. The weather is often great as well with that late Indian Summer feel before we plunge into Autumn and Winter.

If you are planning a visit to Scotland we still have availability for Greenhill in September & have also, this week, started taking bookings for holidays in 2010. Please visit this page for further information.

You might also be inspired by Ste Everington’s lovely photograph taken from the Summer Isles today.

There is a story in the Times today saying that Achiltibuie has been chosen as the location for a major new feature film – The Eagle of the Ninth – to be directed by Kevin Macdonald (the director of award winning films including Touching the Void, the Last King of Scotland & State of Play).

The film is based on a book by Rosemary Sutcliff and tells the story of the ill-fated Roman 9th legion and their expedition from Hadrian’s Wall to Northern Scotland from which they did not return.

I know that the production company were looking to cast locals for parts in the film and held auditions recently in Ullapool. Canning Tatum & Jamie Bell are set to star.

 

 

 

I have recently set up a Twitter account for this blog (@achiltibuie) & you’ll see a feed from it in the right hand column. It already has over 100 followers.

I’ll try to tweet interesting links about the area to all followers. If you use Twitter and want to sign up click on the logo above or here. I’m also happy to answer questions (or try to find out the answers) for any questions visitors might have.

I was at Greenhill in Achiltibuie last week & experimenting with a new Flip video camera in the beautiful weather. Here’s the first one – a panoramic view from Altandhu Polbain across the Summer Isles to Achiltibuie. Please excuse the ‘amateurishness’…

The full timetable for this year’s Coigach Gathering in Achiltibuie has just been published in the Ullapool News. For those of you visiting during the first week of July the Coigach Gathering is the summer festival / highland games for Coigach and is a great occasion. It takes place mainly around the beach at Badentarbet.

The Order of Events:

1.00 – Local pipers will accompany the Gathering Chieftan, Tom MacIver to the fank

1.15 – Primary & secondary accordion & fiddle

- target shooting also starts and runs until 4.00

2.00 – Rowing demonstration by local fishermen

- Wee ones races

- Flycasting (2.00 – 4.00)

2.40 – Hill race / Biathlon start

2.40 – Juniors

2.50 – Ladies and veterans / over 40…

3.00 – Gents and veterans

4.00 – Sheep shearing

4.15 – Net mending

4.30 – Tug ‘o’ War

5.00 – Stone tower building competition

5.30 – Prize giving & prize draw results

6.00 – Bonfire on the beach

6.00 – 8.00 – Traditional music in the tent

9.00 – Dance to the Remains and MV5

There will also be sumo wrestling, wellie boot throwing, skittles, face painting, penalty shoot out, guess the weight of the salmon, BBQ and many other events taking place.

It’s a great day out and there are usually plenty of other things going on in the village around that weekend.

 

 

2 big features recently on holidays in the region.

1) Kayaking around the Summer Isles – ‘a big adventure on your doorstep’

2) A profile of eco-tourism in Assynt - ‘absurdly lovely and in the care of its community’

In a previous post I listed some of the guided walks planned in Wester Ross. I have now found a further list for Assynt (the area North of Achiltibuie around Lochinver).

For further information about all of these walks you can contact:

Highland Council Countryside Rangers, Assynt Visitor Centre, Lochinver IV27 4LX. Tel: 01571 844654 or e-mail: andy.summers@highland.gov.uk

Wednesday May 20th:- Achmelvich Coastal Walk. 11-3. Meet Achmelvich Beach Car Park.

Thursday May 21st:- Little Assynt. 11-3. Meet Little Assynt Car Park.

Thursday May 28th:- Trip to the meteorite crater at Stoer. 11-3. Meet Clachtoll Beach Car Park.

Wednesday June 3rd:- The Bone Caves, Inchnadamph. 11-2. Meet Bone Caves Car Park, 4km South of Inchnadamph.

Thursday 11th June:- Otters at Culkein. 11-3. Meet at Stoer Hall.

Wednesday 24th June:- Walk to the top of Suilven. 9-6. Meet at Assynt Visitor Centre, Lochinver.

Thursday 25th June:- Whale & Dolphin watching at Stoer lighthouse. 2-5. Meet at Stoer Hall.

Thursday 2nd July:- Drumbeg Peat Road. 11-3. Meet Drumbeg View Point Car Park.

Monday 6th July:- Rockpools at Achmelvich. 11-1. Meet Achmelvich Beach Car Park.

Thursday 9th July:- Dragons found in Little Assynt. 11-2. Meet Little Assynt Car Park.

Thursday 23rd July:- The Gruffalo. 11-1. Meet Culag Woods Car Park.

Wednesday 5th August:- Clachtoll Sand Sculpture Competition. 11-1.30. Meet Clachtoll Beach Car Park.

Thursday 6th August:- Conival. 9-6. Meet Inchnadamph Car Park.

Thursday 20th August:- Ardvreck Castle & Loch Assynt. 11-4. Meet Inchnadamph Car Park.

Wednesday 26th August:- Bat Evening Lochinver. 7.30 – 9. Meet Assynt Visitor Centre.

Thursday 27th August:- Aeroplane Flats, Inchnadamph. 10-5. Meet Inchnadamph Car Park.

Wednesday 2nd September:- Fungi, Fruit & Nuts. 11-3. Meet River Inver Bridge, Lochinver.

Wednesday 30th September:- Coastal Birds of Culkein Stoer. 11-3. Meet Stoer Hall.

All the walks are free but donations are appreciated. For further details of these and many other planned walks visit www.assynt.info.

 

One of the cozy bedrooms in Greenhill

As well as writing this blog I also rent out our house in Achiltibuie for holiday-makers who are looking for comfortable self catering accommodation.

Greenhill has been in my family for 4 generations and was extended by my great great uncles in the 1920’s from an original crofting house. It has an enclosed garden and fantastic views across the Summer Isles.

Currently we have availability for the following weeks in 2009 – May 30th; June 20th & 27th; August 8th, 15th & 29th. The house is also available from September onwards for late summer holidays.

Greenhill sleeps between 2 – 6 people and full details and pictures can be found by clicking on this link.

Any queries, just e-mail rory.home@gmail.com

Rory.

I get a lot of enquiries through asking for the dates of various events in Achiltibuie – in particular for the Coigach gathering – Achiltibuie’s very own highland games.

The gathering this year takes place on Saturday 4th July and during that weekend there are lots of linked events taking place. This website gives a good list of dates.

One of the great services offered to visitors in Wester Ross is a series of guided walks and nature events that take place throughout the year. Most are free to attend – although small donations are often welcomed & advance booking is sometimes required.

The events that I have seen publicised so far in the Achiltibuie, Ullapool and Lochinver areas are as follows:

Wednesday 27th May. 10.30 – 12.30 – Brochs and crofts in Achiltibuie. A coastal walk in the North West Highland Geopark with views of the Summer Isles. Discover the history and archaeology of the Brochs and Crofts. Booking is essential – Tel: 01854 613904 or 07881 502230. Start point will be advised on booking. (Walking over rough but fairly flat ground. Reasonable level of fitness required).

Wednesday 3rd June. 11.00 – 4.00 – Wildlife along the Torridonian Edge. Step back in time on this coastal walk to see a billion years of life and maybe some otters and seals. Bring a packed lunch and binoculars. Tel: 01854 613904 for more information. Meet at the Achnahaird – Achiltibuie junction. (Walking over rough and boggy ground with some hills. Reasonable level of fitness required).

Thursday 11th June. 11.00 – 2.00 – Wildlife wander up the Inverianvie river, Gruinard. Explore the waterfall and gorge of the Inverianvie river looking out for the flora and fauna including orchids and maybe a dipper or two. Bring a packed lunch. Meet at Gruniard Beach car park. Booking essential. Tel: 01854 613904. (Walking is over a rough path so please wear sturdy footwear).

Tuesday 23rd June. 11.00 – 2.00 – Wildlife wander at the Falls of Stroma, nr. Ullapool. Explore the waterfalls and gorge of Gleann Mor looking out for the flora and fauna including orchids and maybe a dipper or two. Bring a packed lunch. Booking essential. Meeting point advised on booking. Tel: 01854 613904. (Walking is over a rough path so please wear sturdy footwear).

Tuesday 4th August. 2.00 – 3.30 – Around the world in 80 minutes! Join the ranger at Lael Forest Garden and visit trees from around the world. This is orienteering for those with the travel bug. A fun trail for all the family. All children must be accompanied by an adult and wheelchair users can also join in. Meet at Lael Forest Garden West car park. Tel: 01854 613904.

Saturday 15th August. 2.00 – 4.00 & 8.00 – 10.00 pm – Go batty in Ullapool. An afternoon of batty fun activities for children – making bat badges & kites and listening to bat stories (2-4pm). Also an evening presentation and bat walk. Suitable for all ages. A torch is helpful. Adults £2, Children £1. Booking essential. Tel: 01854 613904 or 07881 502230.

Thursday 17th September. 7.30 pm – late – Creatures of the night! Ullapool. Discover the fascinating nightlife of Ullapool – moths, bats and anything else you find. Set up moth traps. Meet at Morefield play area car park, Ullapool. Bring a torch, hat and sunglasses. Suitable for all ages. Tel: 01854 613904.

Wednesday 23rd September. 11.00 – 4.00 – A billion years of life in Achnahaird. Explore the ancient rivers and lakes and get a glimpse of fossil records of the first life forces to appear on Earth. Part of Scottish Geology Month. Meet at Achnahaird / Achiltibuie junction. Tel: 01854 603 904.

Saturday 10th October. 11.00 – 3.00 – Ancient fort of Dun Canna. Join the ranger in a walk to the ancient fort of Dun Canna. Learn about the lives and times of the people who once lived in this stunning area. A highland Archaeology Festival event. Meet at Blughasary car park (near Strathcanaird), N of Ullapool off the A835. Tel: 01854 613904. (Walking over rough but fairly flat ground. Reasonable level of fitness required)

These are just a few of the events in the local area but many other walks, nature trails and educational gatherings are organised throughout the year. I’ll add further details as they are publicised.

One of our visitors in Greenhill last week sent me this picture he had taken from the bottom of the garden. Thanks for sharing Patrick. A beautiful shot and glad you had a good holiday.

I’m just back from a couple of days in Achiltibuie. It has been a long, wet winter but the weather was glorious. Here’s the view from the front garden of Greenhill yesterday morning.

For anyone who didn’t catch Monty Halls’ Great Escape on BBC 2 last night here is the link to the episode on the BBC iPlayer (which I think only works for viewers in the UK). Some fantastic scenery from the Applecross peninsula.

Those visiting from outside the UK can read a fun review of the programme here.

(Applecross is in Wester Ross but further south from Achiltibuie & Coigach)

Broadcasting House

The area round Ullapool and Lochbroom has its own local radio station – Lochbroom FM.

You can find it on 102.2 or 96.8 FM and it is totally staffed by volunteers. For any holidaymakers to the region it is worth a listen.

Full schedule details can be found here.